Friday, February 25, 2005

The Sissy-fication of Gin

The reason that the proportion of vermouth in martinis gets smaller and smaller is because gin is being made more fruity and flaccid.

A martini is straight alcohol, it is meant to be strong. The flavors of gin are supposed to be herbal and intense--the vermouth offers a roundness and another dimension of herb flavor and the olive (or onion) give the complimenting salt and acid.

The "high end" gins released over the past 8 years have been fruity and wimpy, better suited to gimlets or G&Ts. Tanqueray had a release of Malaca gin a few years ago that was fantastic with lime, and the 10 has a nice flavor but it is NOT martini gin!

Adding vermouth to a fruity, bland gin tastes awful because there's no balance. The flavors clash. So, of course, you don't want to do it. But it doesn't make you a connoisseur. On the contrary, it means you don't understand the drink at all.

If you'd like to give the classic cocktail a try, mix about 10 to 1 dry gin like Bombay Dry (not sapphire), Tanquery, (not 10) or even Gordon’s (a Hemingway favorite) and high quality vermouth. You will stir this with ice. You can stir vigorously, we are not double-oh-seven and this is not vodka, so do not shake gin. It does bruise and the flavor is marred if you shake it. Strain it if you like, into a high stemmed glass, or have it over ice with a nice big pimento olive. If you want a giant martini, please do make two small ones. It should be a small, forceful, aperitif--cold, not a bucket-o-gin. I've heard that martinis are excellent in the sommelier-type champagne flutes (which are kind of diamond shaped,) as well. If anyone tries this, please do let me know.

Wednesday, February 23, 2005

1994 Ridge Jimsomare Cabernet

Yesterday I was lucky enough to have a generous gentleman share a bottle of 1994 Jimsomare Cabernet from Ridge with me. It is so wonderful. Balanced, low alcohol, just the right amount of age. It had flavors of pencil lead (oddly, a very good thing), violet, cassis, pebbles and pepper (black). Perfect acid and tannin balance, beautiful bronzed ruby color*. Go on, buy it and drink it now.

We quarreled over what to drink it with, as my companion loves to pair wines with foods, but for me, when the food or wine is so good, I do not want to be distracted. He held his ground, but I think I won, since we finished the bottle without accompaniment.

*As red wine ages, it turns orange and clear. So, generally, when you get a "blue" red, thick looking wine, it will be young. Of course, some wines are bluer than others, a Petit Syrah will stay blue for a good long time (decades, really, but this is a wine that ages very well for decades), whereas a Pinot Noir may be quite orange early on. Still, if you compare like wines, you will find the bluer is younger. Or, perhaps this only works for Cabernet and Sangiovese based wines.... Of course, if it is very orange, it is probably oxidized. Regardless, when you see a gem-like clarity, and a slightly caramelized ruby color in a Cabernet, go ahead and feel a little excited.


What are you doing still sitting here? Go and buy the wine!

Tuesday, February 22, 2005

My People

I do not have to tell you that there are few places in this area that provide good service.

Or, maybe I do. Because poor service exists in so many places, and no one seems angry about it except me. Part of the reason is that too many people do not know how to act when out to stores, restaurants, departments of motor vehicles.... People who try to get their way by bullying, repeating requests, escalating the situation emotionally (beyond what is warranted given the often mundane consequences,) destroy the spirit of the rare exceptional customer service professional. Curse you for doing that! May you come back to this world as an overly industrious and particularly slimy insect.

Remarkably, in the face of you evil people, a few places manage to be good. Please don't go and ruin them.

If I were a restaurant owner, I would recruit servers at the Chili's at Santana Row in San Jose. They are consistently fantastic, and WAY beyond what is expected in that setting. Especially shocking when you consider how truly awful the service is at the "nicer" restaurants and stores in the mall. It is fascinating to watch them serve a little league post game meal--smiling the whole time with apparent sincerity, from the opening "WANT SPRITE!" at the beginning of the meal to the wiping of Sprite, smashed fries and ketchup handprints off the wall as the children knock their coin tips onto the floor. They are good. If you go there, do take care of them.

I cannot overstate how good the meat department is at Whole Foods in Campbell. I love those people--love them, want to put them in my will.
They are that good. Go ahead and ask any one of them how to cook something. Try to challenge them by requesting a recipe that can make a gourmet meal for four with a toaster oven in a half hour. They know everything, and they are nice!


Thursday, February 17, 2005

When Your Salad is Soda

Sometimes new food preparations are adventures, sometimes they are just wrong. OK, mostly by "new" I mean borrowed from another culture that has been doing it for hundreds of years. Sure, Asian foods are easy targets, but consider the turducken: An innovative new millennium way to enjoy three family style roast birds without all the dishes? Or, rather, a depraved homage to Medieval days when larvae was a good thing and the royal chef's greatest challenge was how to cook things so as to make them look like something else? Oh, how far we've come.

Anyway, I had an adventure today, and it was cucumber soda. It was fabulous!

I am sure it is common somewhere, but it was the first time I had tried it. Even though I have had the V8 carrot-orange atrocity and the vaguely brothy Salad Water by Coca Cola Japan, this was new to me. I’m not sure it would be good everywhere, but it seems that they make it fresh at the Long Life Noodle place at the Metreon in San Francisco.

Do not even ask me why I was eating at a food court—but I will tell you the surprise of delightful vegetable soda was even more wonderful considering my low expectations. Further distractions from the McAtmosphere: the black and white photos of 1920’s Chinese people getting high in opium dens. I have some re-education for whoever thought that was a good idea.

Tuesday, February 08, 2005

Political Rant

Now, I understand it is indelicate to talk about, but do you remember your mother saying to you, "Don't put that in your mouth! You don't know where it has been!"?

If you are not comfortable with cute furry animals being killed for food, and yet you still want to eat them, then you might be a little bit of a hypocrite.


But OK, so what? Who is not?

I don't care about that.

However, if you are SO afraid of facing the fact that your food was alive that you can't even ask where it came from, that you don't even want to know ANYTHING about its content, then you are abusing your privilege. Oh, and you are gross.

Because, pay attention: the killing is not the gross part.


If you have no choice what you eat, maybe you do not want to know where it came from. You can not do anything about it, so why dwell? But most of you I know have so many choices at the store, and even more on the Internet, there is no reason to ignore quality.

Unfortunately, much of the information I have seen regarding farming and nutrition is unbalanced and repellent to those who form the market. Why on earth would I care what vegetarians think about the cattle industry, really?

Do you really need the federal government to tell you to eat less food, that is of higher quality? Your body should tell you this. Good taste tells you this.


You don't have to think about the violent details in order to ask for a carefully prepared, high quality product. It is OK to ask if the chef washed his hands, if your steak contains antibiotic medication, what coatings cover your apple.

While you're at it, it is no deep secret to common sense that locally raised perishables are likely to reach you fresher than those imported to you from great distances.

For a fairly balanced NYT article, visit
http://www.napafreerangebeef.com/html/links.htm# and click on "Power Steer". It explains the dilemma from the farmer's point of view as well as the health of me.

If you are willing to stomach a blush of anti-commercialism on this site, you can find some information on small, clean farm producers here:
http://www.factoryfarm.org/

Thursday, February 03, 2005

My Favorite Wine That I Hate

I have spent many years masking borderline alcohol abuse in snobbery. Or maybe I am masking snobbery in alcohol abuse...Hmmm....anyway..

Either way, my level of snobbery is so snoberocious that sometimes, it is sort of, well, mainstream. You can go too far, and then you come back around. Do you know what I mean, Darling? Like, "I simply do not care what you other fools say! Budweiser is a good beer."

This is not like that.

I am going to tell you that I like Merlot. Two years ago, I would have taken myself off of the guest list for being so basic.

But I have, "come around," as they say--to French wines that are broadly known for being good, which would naturally make me think they were pedestrian dog wash. Because holding the common opinion is just not something I will permit, unless of course I have arrived at this opinion by uncommon means. In this case, oui, I have.

Having drunk just about every other type of wine available, after traveling great distances to try Duriff and Vlašský Ryzlink, who would have imagined that Merlot would be the "hot" thing??? Merlot from France, no less.

However, it turns out that it is true. I cannot even have the salvage of pride to say it is expensive. You may even find a Saint-Emilion at a common grocery. But if you should, do buy it. And if it is not corked or left in too hot a condition, you will be scintillated with the most lovely tinderbox, mysterious dark berry and herb haunted flavor! Light bodied, but engaging with a long finish...the wine enchants.

I do not recommend trying out this experience with your favorite Californian wine. French only! I will of course inform you if I find any other acceptable expressions of this varietal. Next time perhaps I'll tell you a secret about Chardonnay.

Caio!


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